Objects from different, often unknown cultures have for so long cast a spell on the imagination of people in the West. Geographical distances weigh on the ‘cultural capital’ of artefacts that come from far away. Then, if these objects are something so unique they can be hardly reproduced at home, their material value combines with the meaning they acquire when they travel, in space but also in time.

Sari in silk and metal thread, Courtesy Heritage and Sustainability - University of Antwerp

Indian textiles have been leading the global trade for long, from at least the seventeen and eighteenth century, when huge amounts of indian cotton started to be brought to Europe because of their quality and price. Till at least the eighteenth century, Indian textiles were technically much more advanced than the ones produced in Europe, and were therefore generating desire among the fashionable consumers, who were seeking to distinguish themselves by owning something as precious and finely made.

Embroidered cotton dress, with textile probably coming from Gujarat, 1780, Courtesy Victoria and Albert Museum CC BY

Indian textiles can be classified according to the region of production or the technology implied in their making, as different techniques have been developed within the different Indian districts. Threads made of cotton, silk, wool and even gold and silver were used to embroider on different materials, from the most ‘common’ – silk, wool and of course cotton – to less expected ones, such as velvet and leather. Many decorations are implied in the production of these textiles: small mirrors, shells, coins, gems and sequins are all used in different ways, also testifying the skill and craftmanship of the producers.

Kotki, 1850-1965 ca., Courtesy Stichting Nationaal Museum van Wereldculturen, All Rights Reserved

Indian textiles are known for the vivid colours, given the special natural dyes used, but what really attracted western consumers are the exotic motifs and unique decorations such as the ones these fabrics showed in their embroidery. For example, one of the most interesting embroidery technique is the Zardozi. It is done on different fabrics: silk or velvet are the most common,embellished with either chain stitch, stem stitch or satin stitch. The embroidery is made with some so-called ‘zari’ threads and different kind of threads, which can be twisted, untwisted and also metallic.

Rajput wedding gown made of silk, embroidered with zardozi technique, Courtesy Stichting Nationaal Museum van Wereldculturen, All Rights Reserved

Another embroidery technique is the Gujarat, whose typical motifs are flowers, plants and animas, but also human figures can be found on these kind of textiles. The embroidery is done with multi-coloured threads, usually in cotton or silk. Different stitches are used depending on the style of the figures: chain stitch, herringbone stitch, satin stitch, interlace stitch, buttonhole stitch and darning stitch. Mirrors are also used to embellish the whole pattern, which can be made of forms made of scraps of other fabrics stitched on top of the basis.

Visit the Europeana Fashion portal to virtually travel to India and get fascinated by these amazing items.