Archive for September, 2015

“KOREA NOW!” at Les Arts Décoratifs

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Korean design, crafts, fashion and graphic design are now on display in a comprehensive exhibition in Paris!

Museum Les Arts Décoratifs is showing “Korea Now! Design, Craft, Fashion and Graphic Design in Korea”, an exhibition that features the work by 150 Korean artists, artisans and designers. Part of France-Korea year organized under the aegis of the France-Korea committee, chaired by Henry Loirette and in partnership with the Korea Craft & Design Foundation, the exhibition presents a view on the new panorama of creativity in South Korea.

Lee Young Hee “The Clothes of the Wind” 2008

Lee Young Hee “The Clothes of the Wind”, 2008. Courtesy of Les Arts Décoratifs.

Among the other thematic areas, the exhibition highlights Korean fashion by displaying 120 silhouettes and accessories from designers such as Jin Teok, André Kim, Lee Young Hee, whose style was highly celebrated in the 90’s, and Hyung Sul Yoon, Juun.J, Steve J & Yoni P, Kaal E.Suktae, Kwak Hyun Joo and Cy Choi, showing the close ties their creations have with their native culture and traditions.

Design by Kim Young Jin.

Design by Kim Young Jin. Courtesy of Les Arts Décoratifs.

The fashion pieces are installed in five non-chronological sections each representing one of the five cardinal colours of the Korean aesthetics. In addition, the sections include authentic and replica of Hanbok, Korea’s traditional costume, an essential source of inspiration for all these contemporary fashion designers.

Exploring also the country’s graphic design and crafts, the exhibition is an extensive path through the works of South Korea most representative artists and designers, and it will be on until the 3rd January 2016. For more information please visit Les Arts Décoratifs.

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“BARBIE – The Icon” at MUDEC

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"Barbie - The Icon" at MUDEC.

Born Barbara Millicent Robert, Barbie is best known worldwide for her fashionable attire. The toy doll is now celebrated in Milan with an exhibition at MUDEC from the 28th of October.

"Barbie - The Icon" at MUDEC.

Photo: "Barbie - The Icon" at MUDEC. All rights reserved.

Its fashionista personality let it not just wear a various selection of pieces that designers created just for her, but it has also been a muse and inspiration to many of them. More recently, Moschino’s Jeremy Scott designed a collection characterized by the pinkish colours associated to the blond doll and Barbie logo boldly printed on the garments, and Maison Martin Margiela F/W 1994/1995 collection featured a reproduction in scale of the doll’s clothes.

Barbie wearing Emilio Pucci

Barbie wearing Emilio Pucci, 1986. Collection Pucci Archive, all rights reserved.

Barbie, that was created in 1959, is nowadays present in more than 50 countries, worn one billion outfits and has been an UNICEF ambassador. The exhibition will be divided in 5 sections and preceded by an introductory room called “Who is Barbie?”, in which will be shown 7 iconic pieces for each decade from 1959 to the present time, in addition to a timeline, fun facts, numbers and the global making of Barbie.

For more information, please visit MUDEC. Browse also through Europeana Fashion Barbie collection!

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A “Homenaje” to Elio Berhanyer at Museo del Traje, Spain

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Exhibition Elio Berhanyer at Museo del Traje. Courtesy of Museo del Traje

One of the last Spanish couturiers’ story is told in a new exhibition in Madrid.

Until the 27th of September, Museo del Traje hosts an exhibition to celebrate the Spanish fashion designer Elio Berhanyer. The installation, that consist in a selection of 18 pieces from the Museum collection, features models from both Berhanyer’s haute couture and prêt-à-porter line.

Exhibition Elio Berhanyer at Museo del Traje. Courtesy of Museo del Traje

Born in Córdoba in 1929, Berhanyer founded his own brand at the age of thirty and introduced in Spain his new and unique taste, that was strongly influenced and inspired by the country’s youth. The designer’s haute couture creations were characterized by architectural structures, bright and contrasting colors and large plastic decorations, elements that were essential to established the brand’s strong image, which is still recognized today as an inspiration for younger designers.

The designer’s story will also be explored in deep in the Museum’s hall the 24th of September, in the Museum’s hall, when a group of prominent figures related to fashion will be invited to a talk with the Cordovan master to retrace the life and work of Elio Berhanyer.

The exhibition is on until the 27th of September, for more information please visit Museo del Traje. Also, browse through Europeana Fashion collection to find more design from Elio Berhanyer!

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Rosa Genoni comes back to the Expo in Milan 109 years later!

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Embroidered ball gown inspired to the "Primavera" of Botticelli. Design by Rosa Genoni. Milano, 1906.  Courtesy of Galleria del Costume di Palazzo Pitti

The city of Milan, in occasion of the Milan Fashion Week pays homage to Rosa Genoni, the fashion designer who was awarded the “Grand Prix” by the Jury at the 1906 Expo in Milan.

Inaugurated the 16th of September at Palazzo Castiglioni, the exhibition will run until this Friday. On display are sketches, garments, artefacts, books and photographs as well as unreleased films on this stylish woman. Her multifaceted character is portrayed through documents and materials made available to the public by her niece Raffaella Podreider, that will bring visitors through the exhibition.

Exhibition “Rosa Genoni” at Palazzo Castiglioni. Courtesy of Il Giornale. All rights reserved

Rosa Genoni, the legendary pioneer of Italian fashion in the early twentieth century and anti-war activist, created the look of stars, billions and actresses of the Belle Epoque around the world, fighting for the emancipation of women with Anna Kulishoff. She had an extraordinary life, working hard for labor rights and peace.

Embroidered ball gown inspired to the "Primavera" of Botticelli. Design by Rosa Genoni. Milano, 1906. Courtesy of Galleria del Costume di Palazzo Pitti

Her dresses became famous to be inspired to the Renaissance paintings. Two of her masterpieces are conserved at the Galleria del Costume di Palazzo Pitti in Florence: the Manteau inspired to Pisanello and the ball gown inspired to Botticelli, both realized in 1906. The exhibition instead recall the Belle Epoque Style, telling about Rosa’s aim to release women from bustiers and social conventions.

Browse Rosa Genoni on Europeana Fashion Portal!

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“Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch” at Museum at FIT

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Susanne in a corset by The Blonds, circa 2013. Photo by Marco Ovando. All rights reserved.

The style of one of fashion strongest women is now celebrated with an exhibition at Museum at FIT.

Fashion is not just made only by designers, but also by the strong characters that revolves around its world. Susanne Bartsch, one of these exceptional figures, is now celebrated at the Museum at FIT with an exhibition that highlights her own personal vision on fashion.

Susanne in a corset by The Blonds, circa 2013. Photo by Marco Ovando. All rights reserved.

A key figure among the New Romantic scene in London, where she moved to as a teenager, Susanne Bartsch arrived in New York on Valentine’s Day 1981. After opening her shop in Soho while still on a tourist visa, she was one of the first New York retailers to import and promote UK fashion in the US. In the fashion shows she also organized, like “New London” in New York and “London Goes to Tokyo”, she showed the work of young British designers like Leigh Bowery, Body Map, and Stephen Jones.

Susanne and François Sagat in Switzerland hosting an AIDS benefit. Dress by Mathu and Zaldy, 2011. © Patrick MettRaux and Lukas Beyeler. All rights reserved.

The exhibition, curated by Valerie Steele and Susanne Bartsch herself, features the designs by Rachel Auburn, The Blonds, Leigh Bowery, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Pam Hogg, Stephen Jones, Alexander McQueen, Thierry Mugler, Rick Owens, Vivienne Westwood and revolves around Bartsch career and personal style, including also a mise-en-scène of her own shop and the styles she and her friends wore at the parties, with a special section devoted to the AIDS balls she started organized to raise money to support research.

The exhibition runs until the 5th December 2015. For more information please visit Museum at FIT.

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“Yves Saint Laurent: The Style is Eternal” at The Bowes Museum

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A 1964 portrait of Yves Saint Laurent flanked by his 1988 evening outfit inspired by the Cubist movement and a cocktail dress inspired by Pop Art. Photograph: © Fondation Pierre Bergé -Yves Saint Laurent. All rights reserved

The first exhibition on Yves Saint Laurent to be held in the UK, it highlights the everlasting influence Laurent have on fashion and womenswear.

Yves Saint Laurent. Haute couture collection Fall Winter 1970. Marina Schiano wearing the short evening dress © The Estate of Jeanloup Sieff . All rights reserved

Created in collaboration with Foundation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent, the Bowes Museum’s exhibition “Yves Saint Laurent: The Style is Eternal” explores the work of the French designer through a comprehensive collection of pieces installed amongst the Museum’s own collection.

It was in 1962, just after being the Artistic Director of Maison Christian Dior since the death of its founder, that the young Yves Saint Laurent showed his first collection. Already an acclaimed fashion designer, his iconic models changed women’s wardrobe and designers approach to womenswear. His designs are now conserved in Foundation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent in Paris, whose extensive archive is composed by 5,000 garments and over 15,000 accessories, drawings, paper patterns and objects.

A 1964 portrait of Yves Saint Laurent flanked by his 1988 evening outfit inspired by the Cubist movement and a cocktail dress inspired by Pop Art. Photograph: © Fondation Pierre Bergé -Yves Saint Laurent. All rights reserved

The exhibition revolves around the different recurring themes in the designer’s work, also exploring his extensive dialogue with art and displaying not only the famous Mondrian dresses, but also to Diaghilev and Picasso and tributes to Matisse, Cocteau, Braque and Van Gogh, along with some of Laurent’s most iconic pieces like the Tuxedo or models from the Russian collection.

The exhibition is on until the 25th of October 2015. For more info please visit the Bowes Museum. Browse through Europeana Fashion collection to find more designs of Yves Saint Laurent!

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Aleksandar Joksimović: From the collection of the Museum of Applied Art

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Photograph from a fashion show of the “Birds” collection designed by Aleksandar Joksimović. Belgrade, 1972. Courtesy of Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade

The city of Belgrad hosts the work of the designer that shaped Serbia national fashion identity.

At the Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade, the exhibition “Aleksandar Joksimović: From the collection of the Museum of Applied Art” displays the huge donation that the designer Aleksandar Joksimović gave the museum in 2005.

Photograph from a fashion show of the “Birds” collection designed by Aleksandar Joksimović. Belgrade, 1972. Courtesy of Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade.

One of the most influential Serbian fashion designers, in the late 60s Aleksandar Joksimović shaped and formed his country national fashion identity through his models, inspired by the folk costume and traditions of his homeland, Serbia. Nationally acclaimed, the fashion designer also collaborated with the greatest contemporary Yugoslav and Serbian photographer and his works were soon featured in international fashion magazines too, like Elle France.

Photograph of the “Simonida” collection by Aleksandar Joksimović, for the Review Yugoslav Monthly Magazine. Photo by Branko Turin, Dimitrije Manolev, Dragan Đorđevič. 1967. Courtesy of Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade.

His donation to the museum includes more than 230 sketches for clothing pieces, 300 fashion and show photographs, slides with representations of models, a sample book, portraits and drawings, prizes awarded to him and more than 500 press clippings.

The exhibition runs until the 30th of October. For more information, please visit the Museum of Applied Arts, Belgrade. Browse through Europeana Fashion collection to find more about Aleksandar Joksimović!

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We are all made of Stars!

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Paco Rabanne A/W 1999 collection. Collection Catwalkpictures.com, all rights reserved.

Conquer the space with a astral selection of Europeana Fashion items perfect to reach to the stars!

The Space Age is a time period that encompasses the activities related to the Space Race, the space exploration and the cultural and technological developments influenced by these events. This era began with the launch of the Sputnik in 1957 and since then it has been a great inspiration for moviemakers, music producers, artists and fashion designers.

Man's ensemble designed by Pierre Cardin in 1967. Collection Victoria and Albert Museum. CC-BY-NC

The space era has inspired names like André Courrèges, who redesigned the female silhouette and flashed it in a further yet futuristic galaxy, or Paco Rabanne, which became iconic with his Barbarella costumes, the 1968 movie that inspired fashion for years. Even today it inspires shows, catwalks and runways.

Paco Rabanne A/W 1999 collection. Collection Catwalkpictures.com, all rights reserved.

This period reached its peak with the Apollo Program, that captured the imagination of the world’s entire population. The landing of Apollo 11 was watched by over 500 million people around the world and it is widely recognized as one of the most defining moments of the 20th century. Discover the story of the logo designed by Emilio Pucci for Nasa Apollo 13 mission!

This month Europeana Fashion presents a selection of space age inspired items from its archive. Discover more contents on Europeana Fashion Portal!

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“DIOR, THE NEW LOOK REVOLUTION” at Musée Christian Dior, Granville

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The "Bar" outfit designed by Christian Dior, 1947. Collection Les Arts Décoratifs, all rights reserved.

In Dior’s childhood home Villa “Les Rhumbs”, an exhibition tells the story of one of the most important fashion silhouettes.

When in 1947 Christian Dior presented in Paris his first haute couture collection, a revolution arose in fashion. Held at Musée Christian Dior in Granville, the exhibition “DIOR, THE NEW LOOK REVOLUTION” explores the couturier’s innovative “New Look” from its conception in 1947 and throughout the years until 2015.

The “New Look” may be considered the Manifesto of Christian Dior aesthetics. Symbol of this Manifesto is the “Bar” outfit, whose recognizable silhouette is celebrated in the exhibition, showing how it still influences contemporary creations. Its sculpted volumes and wide skirt were indeed revolutionary in the age in which it was created, and for its femininity it was loved by the women which were before constrained, because of the war, in squared and manly shape.

The "Bar" outfit designed by Christian Dior, 1947. Collection Les Arts Décoratifs, all rights reserved.

The "Bar" outfit designed by Christian Dior, 1947. Collection Les Arts Décoratifs, all rights reserved.

The display, that covers the almost sixty years history of the Maison, features eighty haute couture garments from Christian Dior to Raf Simons, along with photographs, documents, “New Look” memories, manuscripts and original sketches, including Miss Dior perfume bottles, a mini-replica of the “Bar” suit, “New Look” dolls and “suit” patterns and toiles.

The exhibition runs until the 1st November 2015. For more information, please visit Musée Christian Dior, Granville.

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Givenchy, Challenging Fashion Habits

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Givenchy, Spring-Summer 2011. Collection Catwalkpictures, all rights reserved.

After moving the location from Paris to New York, Givenchy opens up its Spring 2016 show to the public.

When in 2009 SHOWstudio.com streamed online McQueen “Plato’s Atlantis” show, the world was for the first time invited to what was before an exclusive event addressed to an exclusive audience. From that time on, influenced by the arising power of social media and the internet, fashion opened up its doors and rapidly changed to adapt itself to the rules of the brave new world of the web.

Givenchy, Spring-Summer 2011. Collection Catwalkpictures, all rights reserved.

It can be considered a consequence of these changes that Givenchy, last week, has announced that their Spring 2016 show will be open to the public, with 820 tickets obtainable free of charge from their website, other 100 reserved for those who live near the set location and 280 offered to the student of the city’s fashion schools.

Even though Givenchy is not the first one to open its show to a real public – just consider Maison Martin Margiela S/S 1990 show, with children running among models in the catwalk set in a children playground – its gesture is significant in this time and age. Differently from recent habits, people attending to the fashion show are not invited for their influence, instead they are for their interest or love for the brand.

If a public show is going to be the custom for fashion, this is yet to be seen. However, Givenchy’s action is the perfect response to a more and more democratized fashion environment and its impact will of course leave its mark.

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