Nowadays, it is difficult to imagine a woman, whatever her taste, role or occupation, without a bag. Bags allow to carry all the things we need – and want – to keep with us. In their most iconic versions, they can even be considered a statement on their own right. Interestingly, late eighteenth century popular bags were so small they were considered ephemeral, nearly a ‘joke’.

Embroidered reticule, 1920-1930, Courtesy Amsterdam Museum, CC

By the late 18th century, the line of women’s clothing changed: skirt and dresses were clinging to the body, the overall silhouette very fitted and the materials used were more lightweight; for these reasons, pockets were difficult to be added to patterns. Therefore women began carrying small, drawstring satchels or purses, often made of silk net, similar to the bags used to carry their needlework, but considerably smaller. These bags were used to carry a perfume, face powder, handkerchiefs, and all their portable ’beauty tools’.
The term used to indicate these objects was Réticules, often mangled in Ridicules: the former refers to their appearance, whilst the second is clearly liked to their small size. Irish traveller Katherine Wilmot defined Réticules in an entry on her diary dated 1801 as ‘species of little Workbag worn by the Ladies, containing snuff-boxes, Billet-doux, Purses, Handkerchiefs, Fans, Prayer-Books, Bon-Bons, Visiting tickets.’ Reticule comes intact from the Latin reticulum, which means ‘small net’, while Ridicule recalls the French for ‘funny’ or even ‘pointless’.

1800-1824. Ridicule in embroidered silk, 1800-1824, Courtesy Victoria & Albert Museum, CC BY SA

Even if considered useless by some commentators - the idea of women carrying their private objects was ‘ridiculous’ in itself - these items were quickly to become a fundamental feature of women’s attire: their popularity improved and their design developed. Réticules often were coordinated with the outfit and makers experimented with different materials and motifs. By the mid 1800’s, the style changed: the most popular was the flat style, that could be made different shapes, either round or squared, and were generally fastened with a metal fastener, which was both functional and decorative.

Guilded minaudière, France, 1920s, Courtesy Les Arts Décoratifs, All Rights Reserved

Another example of bag characterised by its small size is the minaudière. This particular object, which stands in between the bag and the jewel, was invented – and patented, in order to avoid copies – by Van Clef & Arpels in 1934. It is said that Charles Arpels was inspired by socialite Florence Gould, who used to put her makeup items into a tin box. Minaudière were deemed ‘essential’ by many accounts during the 1930s and 1940s. Although being valued mostly for its ‘outside’, In the original version the minaudière was a carefully designed item above all in the inside: small compartments were arranged, in order for women to be able to carry all the small items a social night requested.

The Europeana Fashion collection holds numerous of these ‘essential jokes’ from different periods and places: explore the archive to know more.