There are materials that alone can give an aura of preciousness to the garments or accessories they are part of. This is true for beads and jewels, but also for fur and, above all, feathers, whose very nature is able to turn the ordinary into something astonishing.

Lady with feather boa, drawing by Herbert Mocho, 1935 ca., Courtesy Kunstbibliothek, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin CC BY NC SA

There are two main types of feathers: contour and down. Contour feathers cover the wings and tail, while the down feathers, shorter, softer and fluffier, are to be found at the base of the contour feathers. The use of these precious materials in personal adornment really does cross times and cultures.The craze for feathers let to great damage to the animal world: the bittern, for example, was extinct due to the immense demand during the nineteenth-century, a destiny shared with the huia of New Zealand, which happened right at the beginning of twentieth century. Now national and international legislations are very strict, to protect species that are greatly reduced; also, advancements in technology made it possible to produce fake feathers and fur that look and feel real.

When talking about feathers and fashion, it is not much a matter of need, but definitely a matter of appearance and spectacularity. The more exotic and flamboyant the feathers orating dresses and accessories, the better, above all in attires for parties and events. And, if many accessories, as hats and bags, have been decorated with feathers, one fashion object can be said to be the real celebration of the material and of all its potential: The feather boa.

Boa with ostrich feathers, 1971, Courtesy Gemeentemuseum Den Haag, All Rights Reserved

It is claimed that this ‘long muffler made of feathers’ was invented by Henri Bendel at the end of nineteenth century, when it was used above all by the ladies of high society for special occasions; even though there are accounts of similar items since the mid-1800, its popularity grew substantially during the 1920s, and then again in the 1970s, the late 1990s till the early 21st century. Interestingly, the fame of the boa is linked to the stage; boas have been used by dancers and entertainers in general to perform their acts: for instance, dancer Isadora Duncan and actress Mae West used it.

Christian Dior fashion show, A/W 1989/1990, photo Courtesy Paul van Riel, All Rights Reserved

the appropriation of this object from some sectors of popular culture considerably changed its meaning and, therefore, the kind of ‘elegance’ it bears.   Some of the most mesmerising and ‘campy’ personalities, such as David Bowie, Cher and Elton John used to wear boas as ‘props’ in their performances. It was – and still is – also a staple of cabaret and drag shows, which appropriate of the objects defining the look of the ’ladies’ turning them into caricatures.