‘‘Embroidery is to haute couture what fireworks are to Bastille Day.’ This was the statement François Lesage made when asked about the relationship between couture and his own practice.

Lesage for Balmain, 1954, Courtesy Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris, All Rights Reserved

When it comes to embroidery, Lesage is probably the first name that comes to mind.Throughout his career, he has collaborated with the most iconic maisons, establishing his reputation of highly-skilled maker and talented creator – or anticipator – of the atmospheres of French couture, and linking is name to the extraordinary details of gowns and accessories. François Lesage was born ‘in the business’: in 1924 his parents had in fact taken over the workshop of the embroiderer Michonet, famous for working, above all, with all the biggest names of French couture. After serving as apprentice in the family business, right at the end of World War II, François Lesage opened a Studio on Sunset Boulevard in 1948, working with costume designers in the film industry. However, the sudden death of his father made him decide to return to France and take the role of director of the atelier.

Lesage for Schiaparelli, 1938-39, Courtesy Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris, All Rights Reserved

In many ways did Lesage highlight the duplicity of his practice: between craftsmanship and invention, technical savviness and exquisite taste. His role as ‘haute embroiderer’ led him to venture in other fields to inform his practice of innovative techniques that produced never-before-seen effects: he was also an inventor, experimenting with dyeing techniques and stitches. An outstanding number precious materials were used to create the samples: sequins, feathers, chenilles, ribbons, buttons together with unexpected materials, such as Rhodoid. , Elsa Schiaparelli and Yves Saint Laurent are said to have worked only with him, trusting not only his ability but, above all, his talent in predicting what they wanted to complement their creations.

Lesage for Schiaparelli, 1938, Courtesy Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris, All Rights Reserved

François Lesage developed collaborative relationships not only in France, but across the international scene: Pierre Balmain, Cristobal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Jacques Fath, Jacques Griffe, Jean Dessès, Hubert de Givenchy, and, from the 1980s on, Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Geoffrey Beene. Karl Lagerfeld, who had just arrived at Chanel, began a professional relationship with him 1983, opening a new era for the maison: Mademoiselle Chanel in fact had never wanted to work with him before, given the strong link he had with rival Elsa Schiaparelli.

Lesage for Jeanne Lafaurie, 1950s, Courtesy Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris, All Rights Reserved

At the end of the 1980s, François Lesage was celebrated with a travelling exhibition first held at the Palais Galliera in Paris, then at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, the Fashion Foundation of Tokyo, and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. During his life, he received numerous awards and recognitions, such as the Medal of the City of Paris in 1984, and the Grand Prix de la Création of the City of Paris. He was made a Knight in the Order of the Legion of Honor, and was later promoted to the rank of Commander in the Order of Arts and Letters.