In the autumn/winter 1994-95 women’s prêt-à-porter collection designed by Maison Martin Margiela, some clothes showed unusual features. These items all reported a second label, which stated: ‘Garments reproduced from a doll’s wardrobe (details and disproportions are reproduced in the enlargements)’.

Dolls and fashion have tight connections. If in recent times dolls are associated with the particular image of the sassy fashionista, in the past they have been an important method of communication and reproduction of fashion. Their minute dimensions were an advantage for couturiers and textile producers, since they could use them to present their creations to a broader public with a moderate use of fabric and limited shipping expenses.

Shirt, Maison Martin Margiela, a/w 1994-95. Courtesy MoMu - ModeMuseum Provincie Antwerpen.

However, their minute dimensions also represented a limit, for accessories and cuts couldn’t be reproduced in exact proportion. Looking at the clothes designed for popular dolls like Barbie, Ken and G.I. JOE, Maison Martin Margiela focused on these peculiarities, as the zippers and buttons, pockets, un-anatomic cuts and unfinished details and up-scaled them to life size, making this disproportions more evident.

Jacket, Maison Martin Margiela, s/s 1999. Courtesy MoMu - ModeMuseum Provincie Antwerpen.

Though playful in his approach, with this overturn Maison Martin Margiela explored the concept of the standardised body, highlighting its contractions and conventions, as magnified in the idealized and un-realistic features of the toy dolls; the collection also reflected on how both the female and male bodies are keen to undergo this process of standardisation by fashion and social ideals.

Sweater, Maison Martin Margiela, s/s 1999. Courtesy MoMu - ModeMuseum Provincie Antwerpen, all rights reserved.

In the collection, odd details as oversized accessories, un-attached collars and seams left with uncut threads contributed to the atmosphere of ‘unease’ that was associated to the mystique of the Maison. Sticking to the overarching project, the knitwear pieces of the collection were even realized with a thicker thread, accordingly to the false proportions of the toys’ clothes. The Maison also reprised this theme for the spring/summer 1999 menswear prêt-à-porter line, which featured coats with faux oversized front buttons, chunk zippers and and huge ID tag chains.

Find more pictures from this and other Maison Martin Margiela collections in the Europeana Fashion portal and learn more about Barbies and dolls in fashion exploring related entries our blog.