History of the Hand Fan

The origin of the hand fan is quite uncertain. Thanks to artistic representations we know that, around 3000 b.C. fans were used by Egyptians. Egyptian fans were big, fixed, and semicircular shaped, made with feathers and with long handles. They had double function: blowing air and scaring away insects. Also it was a sacred instrument, used in religious ceremonies. Greeks and Romans used fans, too. The most famous was the “Flabellum” that in the middle Ages was used during the Christian liturgy.

Ball accessories. 1876. Courtesy of Wien Museum. CC BY NC SA

The folding hand fan is recognized as being invented in Japan or China, modeled after the folding wings of a bat. In the 1500s the device was taken to Europe by way of trade routes and became a stylish symbol of wealth and class. Its big success is due to Caterina De’ Medici, who carried some of them in her trousseau at the French Court. Made in precious materials, the fan was painted on thin leather that was cut as Italian laces. While in Japan they were made in iron and used by men in war, to spread messages or, sometimes, as a weapon.

Box renter's fan for the 1787-1788 season, printed with plans of the Kings Theatre and subscribers' boxes. Printed paper leaf with ivory sticks. Made in London, 1787. Courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum. CC BY SA

During XVIII and XIX century, fans became integral part of court etiquette. The aristocrat women had one for any occasion: to proclaim an engagement, to be included in the trousseau, to be introduced in court society, for the birth of children and for mournful happenings. In 1700s there were also fan to be used in church, or with theater’s and geographical maps. In the same period women developed a secret language, to make signals with fans, that was codified in XIX sec and was used to engage secret dates.

Bridesmaid's miniature fan, gilded and lithographed with pastoral 18th-century scene of shepherdess and suitor. Lithographed paper, hand-painted wood. 1850. Courtesy of Vicoria and Albert Museum. CC BY SA

The design of the screen fan is a fixed handle, most often made out of exquisitely turned wood, fixed to a flat screen. The screen could be made out of silk stretched on a frame or thin wood, leather or papier mache. In China they used to insert little porcelain details on the silk screen. The surface is often exquisitely painted with different kind of scenes. The most beautiful fans were produced in Italy, France and England. During the XVIII century, Italy spread the trend of “Grand Tour” fans, painted with images of urban landscapes, archeological sites and natural views, that were bought by aristocrat traveler as souvenir of their Italian holidays.

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