Tribute to Schiaparelli: SCHIAP SHOCK by MUDE
The revival of the house of Schiaparelli has inspired Europeana Fashion partner MUDE to share with the public the Schiaperelli designs from its collection. In this blog, MUDE tells us about the legendary house and gives a behind-the-scenes look of the set-up of the exhibition.
From left to right: white dress, ca. 1950; bolero Les Chevaux du Cirque with Maison Lesage embroidery, 1938; dress and coat, 1937; coat, tunic and skirt by Christian Lacroix, 1991. © Museu do Design e da Moda
Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) or Schiap, as she liked to be called, was born in Rome. She bound fashion and art together, collaborating with artists such as Jean Cocteau, Francis Picabia, Man Ray and Salvador Dali. In her witty creations inspired by Surrealism, humor and fantasy come together in sophisticated couture.
Bustle skirt in silk tartan, 1948. © Museu do Design e da Moda
Schiaparelli was a pioneer: she introduced shorts in women’s clothing; visible zips used in couture, hitherto confined to underwear; promoted fashion shows; created fragrances commercialized in packages that were true art work; joined the beautiful with the bizarre; made the shocking pink and the trompe l’oeil iconic.
Evening hat in silk with beads, ca. 1930. © Museu do Design e da Moda
In the 1950s, due to the post-war austerity, Schiaparelli closed her Parisian fashion house. Nevertheless, her work remains today as visionary and singular as ever. In 2012, the name of Schiaparelli was everywhere: more than fifty years after the closing of her house, the reopening of maison Schiaparelli was announced by the Italian businessman Diego Della Valle; the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York presented the hottest show of the year, Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations, which put in (imaginary) dialogue the two Italian designers from different generations – Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada.
From left to right: dress and coat, 1937; bolero Les Chevaux du Cirque with Maison Lesage embroidery, 1938; coat, tunic and skirt in wool crepe, 1991 by Christian Lacroix. © Museu do Design e da Moda
French designer Christian Lacroix (Arles, 1951) was elected to design the first couture collection of the renewed Schiaparelli, sharing with the Italian designer the sense of humor and boldness. About this challenge, Lacroix said: “Elsa is a sacred sphinx who will never cease to make us question things, all the while offering new puzzles by way of answers. My wish is to reinstate her at the centre of her fashion house and on the stage through which she seduced the world. “
To evoke the relaunch of the Schiaparelli brand, MUDE wants share with the public the pieces designed by Schiap that are part of MUDE’s Collection.
The house of Schiaparelli will present 15 unique pieces created by Christian Lacroix paying homage to the Schiap legend in July 2013. Read the interview with Christian Lacroix on Style.Com.
Bolero Les Chevaux du Cirque with Maison Lesage embroidery, 1938. © Museu do Design e da Moda
Bolero Les Chevaux du Cirque with Maison Lesage embroidery, 1938. © Museu do Design e da Moda
Evening hat in silk with beads, ca. 1930. © Museu do Design e da Moda
From left to right: dress and coat, 1937; bustle skirt in tartan silk, 1948; bolero Les Chevaux du Cirque with Maison Lesage embroidery, 1938; coat, tunic and skirt in wool crepe by Christian Lacroix, 1991; white dress in cotton, ca. 1950. © Museu do Design e da Moda